image from gala.archaeological.org
The work involved in fermenting, dying, and wearing indigo was so labor intensive that the experience gained by paying attention to the sensory properties of indigo resulted in many master craftsmen.
left image from admc.hct.ac.ae
When the indigo plant and water combination starts fermenting it begins to bubble. The indigo makers would smell and taste the liquid to check whether or not the indigo was ready. Timing is everything and waiting could ruin the fermentation.
A healthy indigo dye vat has a strong ammonia odor. If the fermentation slows, sweet foods like dates or bran were added to jump start fermentation. When the vat smelled too sweet, soda ash or wood ash were added to slow the fermentation and prolong the life of the vat. It was possible to add too much sweet or ash material to balance the dye vat causing a layer of sludge to build up on the bottom which also acted toward compromising the vat.
top image from colormyworldblue@blogspot.com bottom image from livingbluebd.com
It takes several dips in the dye vat to achieve a deep blue indigo color. True indigo dyed fabric has a distinct earthy smoky smell. Some people like the smell while others do not. Fabric can be so saturated with dye that the blue color rubs off onto your skin. In some cultures the blue color on your skin is a symbol of wearing a good indigo garment. Meaning the more times the fabric was dipped in the dye the it more cost. In Africa money was saved toward having an indigo head cloth made for a boy when he reached manhood. In Asian countries the dowry items made for brides contained indigo dyed threads which were used for intricate embroidery designs on bedding and clothing. These items were then displayed for the future mother in law's approval. Indigo garments are still being made today and are still sought after as status symbols.
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