Day 7 - Indigo Production in Japan

Japanese indigo dye vat  (photo global.rakuten.com)

It is believed that in the fifth century AD China introduced indigo to Japan. Like many other countries using indigo they centered many of their own cultural beliefs and customs around the growing and production of this mysterious deep blue dye. For example, during the three month process of starting a successful indigo dye vat, an auspicious day on the Buddhist calendar was carefully chosen. Once the fermentation had begun Japanese farmers considered the nurturing of the vat, called the bedroom, akin to protecting a baby. Straw mats called bed covers were laid on top of the vat to keep the baby warm. Each time the warm fermenting mass was turned in the vat an offering of rice wine was made to the god of  Ai or indigo. 

Indigo dyed fabrics were widely used in Japan for bedding, clothing, wrapping cloths, and curtains. Decorative resist dying and Shibori stitching techniques portrayed traditional  symbols and patterns on the dyed fabrics to respect  the Japanese culture for producing  these finely crafted  items.

Shibori Stitching  Sampler

With government support, fifty acres of indigo are still grown on the remote island of Shikoku to preserve the traditional ways of growing and dying with indigo. 

Day 6 - Indigo Production in China

 

China, Guizhou Province, Gejia Miao woman drying batik fabric (photo pinned from images search yahoo.com)

In China the production of Indigo was grown and used in a much different way than the large scale operations in India where the export trade of dying and printing textiles fueled the scale of production. Although there were some large scale farms in China, the majority of farmers grew their indigo crops in between  rows of rice resulting in a  smaller harvest.  Small fermenting vats and  jars of indigo could be found stored for dying the family's clothing and other necessary textiles. Some small farmers did produce indigo for sale but the quality of the indigo paste was found to spotty and unreliable. The method for producing indigo was similar to India but Chinese farmers instead added slaked lime to the fermented liquid creating a paste that could be used locally and within a year rather than a dry cake that India's merchants preferred for trading.

 Miao jacket Early-Mid 20th Century Applique on indigo dyed cotton 

(image found on cavinmorris.com)

Day 5 - Early Indigo Production in India

       
                                                                  Indian Indigo block printed pattern

India is believed to be the oldest center of indigo production and dying in the Old World. To produce enough indigo farmers were forced to give up a percentage of their land to grow indigo. Growing indigo proved to be a lucrative process where nothing was wasted. The leaves produced dye, and  were composted enriching the soil with nitrogen. Stems were used as cattle feed and fueled the boilers in indigo factories.

A British-run indigo factory in India.This is a beating vat where the indigo was oxidized. It would have produced a nauseating smell. (photo from designsponge.com)

After the indigo leaves were fermented in a vat the liquid is strained off. Next almost naked groups of lower cast men and women walked up and down in slimy waist deep liquid beating and stirring with paddles to oxidize the liquid, turning it from green to dark blue. Nicknamed the "devil's tank" It was a noxious and dangerous process that injured or killed many.  Once the aerated indigo was deemed ready the beating ceased allowing the settling  and draining off of water leaving behind a thick clay like blue paste. The Indigo paste was collected and dried for dying or trading.

Day 4- Blue Gold

Indigo Dye in Blocks  (photo Wild Colors natural dye)

It is not known exactly how and when the desire for Indigo, often called Blue Gold, became associated with wealth and social status. Around 2400 BC. linen mummy wrappings with indigo dyed borders were found in ancient burial sites. In India even earlier archaeological sites unearthed  four different varieties if indigo seeds and evidence of large scale farming operations growing indigo. Trade routes used by Marco Polo around 1200 noted indigo as part of its cargo making its way across China to Europe. The Indigo trade was so competitive that merchants often tried to add extra weight inside the dried indigo cakes to maximize their profits. Indigo was considered so valuable that  European explorers raced to expand their trade routes and grapple for control of available Indigo and the countries that produced it. The history of European involvement and subsequent outcome of their influence on acquiring Indigo is a long and often ugly story fueled by the desire to have more Blue Gold.

Day 3 - Indigo from plant to dye

Dried Indigo Cake

 

 

Historically  textiles were an important economic commodity in India, China, Japan, and Africa.
Indigo is a natural dye extracted from plants that resulted in a rare and widely sought after deep and permanent blue color. They planted, dyed, and traded their cotton and silk fabrics each grappling  for the richest corner of the market.  
There are several species of Indigo plants some yielding more pigment than others but the lengthy process of extracting the dye is the same. 

First the indigo plant leaves were soaked in large vats of water until they fermented producing the blue dye  material called indigotin. Next the fermented leaf mixture was strained and combined with lye and pressed into cakes to dry.  When the cakes dried they were ground into a fine powder to be combined with other ingredients making  dye colors ranging from shades of blue to purple.

Day 2- What is Indigo

 

 

Indigofera pendula

There are over 700 varieties of the Indigo plant, most of which grow in the tropical and subtropical areas of the world. This unique species of  plant is used to make indigo dye, a deep blue dye color that spearheaded a global desire to obtain its textile riches as far back as ancient Egypt and is still used today.

How and why early cultures all over the world unlocked its properties and developed the process of dying with indigo is both mysterious and marvelous to ponder. 

My own history began over 20 years ago with the purchase of some indigo fabric at a quilt show. Since that purchase I have, like so many others, become enamored with the color and characteristics of indigo textiles. In the next 29  blog posting days I plan to share a glimpse into the beautiful deep blue world of indigo.

When I'm not Quilting... 

I took pause when writing that title but decided it was an accurate sentiment since I can't really be quilting all the time, just most of the time! I do have to step away from my studio occasionally to ponder what I'm working on. Some of my favorite ways to relax and clear my mind and are walking on the beach, riding the Harley, or in my kitchen. Reality check it's usually in the kitchen!

 

Reflections 23 x 28  c. Mary Walter Quilts

One of the best parts of cooking is discovering what is the freshest or coolest things I can find  at the market. This week the fresh scent of peaches enticed me. Peaches are fickle and last about a day after they ripen. Just eating them is good but baking them was great! On a hot summer night this was the perfect way to end the day.

Summer Baked Peaches 

2 ripe peaches cut in half and pitted

2 T. melted butter

2T. almond flour

2T. brown sugar

1/4 t. cinnamon

4 whole almonds

1/2 c. vanilla yogurt

Cinnamon for sprinkling

Combine melted butter, almond flour, brown sugar and cinnamon. 

Put peaches cut side up in a 9 x 9 buttered baking dish. Spoon butter mixture evenly into peaches filling the center and cut side of the peach. Top each with an almond.

Bake at 350 for 25-30 minutes. Plate and drizzle each half with yogurt and sprinkle with a pinch of cinnamon.

Serves 2.

c. In Marys Kitchen

I hope you enjoy this easy way to use peaches and get some quilting done too!

                                                                                                 Happy Quilting,

                                                                                                                Mary